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The unexpected meeting Maxime Chaya

Maxime Chaya Lebanese is a lean and dry like a financing for Predazzo. One guy wore bad angle on that jacket and tie perpetually too wide or too long. Maxime Chaya But that time has saved me the day before for the faint boredom. On 15 May

duemilaesei Maxime was up there for days, advanced to the field, waiting for the arrival of good weather to climb to the top. Days of waiting as cold drafts in the corridor to continue to be there sooner or later we both used to it. But that morning was the last, last chance to go up, the last hope before being forced to give up, the last window before resigning to have done without being able to do thirty-thirty, even thirty thousand without trentamilaeuno .

were all tired, exhausted beyond all imaginable limits. The body needs to adapt slowly to the altitude and even before starting the climb proper effort is being lavished enormous. It had taken seven camps for intermediate to get up there on the north side of the mountain. And before a whole month of acclimation and before that years of training in the past to imagine the moment of the finale. Now there the air was thin and the men felt weak and felt like old advance the unpleasant sensation of the body that also wanting fails to execute the commands of the mind.

To get to the advanced field north of the hill you must climb to almost seven thousand feet, climbing up three hundred of sheer ice. That morning was the last hope we can try to get those up to eight thousand. Towards the end of the night had provided a brief calm winds, which was to last until early morning. Not more than five hours, a tiny crack in that ice storm that has lasted two weeks.

Five hours are not a few to go up, but the difficulty of them all: in five hours but must be able to climb also to get otherwise, quite simply, you die. come and go, this is the true meaning of the thing, not only have enough strength to reach the summit but also to be able to return to base. And come back is the hardest part: Eighty percent of accidents happen on the way back.

Once you leave the field would be advanced entered the death zone, where more than forty degrees below zero and wind snowstorm, freezing to death is more than a remote possibility. On railways and on the ropes in front of them, their life would be constantly in danger, at risk of being frozen or without air, without oxygen. They left at five and they were enough. Am, in the dark, trying to pass through that tiny window.

It took more than an hour before the lights out at dawn began to light up a little wall and path along the crack. Followed them from the field with binoculars, they saw that they were moving slowly in the cold, saw them in the blue and the gray blur. And their tired, infinitely tired and weak to the point that every step was alone an entire climb.

were two to turn around and decide to return, two who fail to recognize, not to find more strength to face the nature that crossroads at you. Two others went, disappearing quickly from sight. The fifth was left behind in the middle. They called on the radio, asked him to come down, ordered him to return. But he did not hear. Or did not want to hear and slowly became a speck in the distance. There seemed to stop, but they knew that was advancing. But very slowly advancing. As a drop that turns into ice floor he kept on his way. They followed with binoculars until at some point he disappeared into the mists of the biggest mountain in the world. Maxime Chaya

I have a long and narrow as a Lebanese financier Predazzo and now I get to the crack in the death zone where the extreme altitude blocks the digestion and even my body begins to consume its own tissues to find a residual energy. Maxime Chaya are brought up here and I have my flag on top, two horizontal red stripes and one white with a beautiful tree in the center of Cedar those of our mountains, those mountains of earth and stone that closed the Mediterranean to the east . Maxime Chaya are, one will also hurt that jacket and tie is too wide and long, but now from here, on top of the world, I look at you all there. And we rest a bit, 'thinking of you and me, what I'm doing, what was before and what will be. Maxime Chaya are, I feel just fine up here but now it's time to go.

Maxime knew very well that the return is more difficult the first leg. Up in the summit seemed to find a reserve of energy up there like Moses with the tablets of the law. But down Maxime was exhausted, consumed slowly, one step after another. Eighty percent of accidents happen during descent, repeated mentally alert to keep down the ropes, down the ravine, down to the death zone. Eighty percent of accidents happen in descent over and over again until he meets that pile of snow that they would have to be there. There would have to be because that body was a pile of snow.

Maxime knew very well that the road home is paved with the bodies of all the climbers who do not have it done. Why are above, where each step is too difficult and even close to thinking of bring them down, since all Oetzi Iceman of all the world, are buried in the snow all the mummies perennial ice in that blue and gray flutter all the spirits that accompany you leaping for Way of Death.

This Maxime knew very well prepared and there was only this time happened to him was not a grave, he encountered a being of ice and spirit. What Maxime stood before May 15 of that duemilaesei was a man who was dying, they were the last breaths of a being who was still alive, aware that now is not going to make it. That day, Maxime was powerless against a hopelessly frozen body from the knees down he was finally losing consciousness. And there was nothing they could do, you could not warm up, breathe, do not give energy or oxygen because Maxime knew he had only the bare essentials to get up there and back to base camp. Up there in heaven, everyone had enough for himself and God - that there is closer - for everyone.

With Maxime infinite sadness and Dorjee Sherpa, the man looked at the final point, infinite sadness and the certainty that they can not do anything. subverted the cold and hard while I watched my only thought - Maxine would say later - was that man at that time was closer to death than it was to life. "

From them down just want to come back, to return home, longing for children, family. Maxime did not stop to wait for the others to the field advanced down the same day and slept in the bottom field, dreaming of a trip to Beirut.

Maxime Chaya - Steep Dreams: my journey to the top of the world