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Panza air!

Beijing is big, very big: if you do not stop at least a week then see only the belly tank tops with the air, feel the smell of sewer, plays the sound of intorcigliato language, taste the Chinese dumplings, remain out of the Forbidden City and just reach the lakes of the emperors.

At the counter of fresh Carrefour Beijing you can find sharks, turtles and snakes .... live! The Chinese appreciate an ingredient of the day and keep them in tanks as the lobsters.

If you close your eyes, you fall asleep and you happen to wake up in the suburbs - a nice suburb of any city in the world halfway between pole and equator - you could be in San Donato, in Levallois Perret, or somewhere in Switzerland, which is by definition the periphery (because wherever you are in Switzerland, also in the center of the town you always seem to stay on the outskirts of somewhere else).

The weather in Beijing is extreme: it rains or hot humid blanket of snow or stellate to twenty below zero. The weather in Shanghai is like a huge area of \u200b\u200bindustrial warehouses and motorists gray cloud that always threaten but never rains. In this part of China is a little 'house, ugly and insignificant as the beloved Po valley. I am surprised that we do not like the texture Soresina.

But how is it possible that tonight replicate the jellyfish appetizer for dinner? E 'that are so nice that I just can not disappoint them, as that sort of rubber that smells of garlic and vinegar is not exactly my favorite dish. But I admit that Dongpo, belly stew cooked in wine with lots of pork skin, I was not disappointed at all (I'd also like a dad).

It 'nice to chat with the Chinese food, are enthusiasts: scorpion kebabs, fried starfish, insects restaurants (expensive), roasted rabbit (the girls like to gnaw on his head), the brains of monkeys (a skull open with the legitimate owner is still alive) and last but not least the dish of three sounds: a featherless baby mouse that squeaks when you take it with chopsticks and dip them rebuilt when the boiling broth. The third sound they say you will do directly to you, when you put in your mouth.

Ah ... China!

(Beijin, Tianjin, Shanghai - July 2010)

xM, goodluck

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Cairo

Hordes of children at the end of the school, a bunch of cats

pulciosi,

hijab worn by us as being voted the League,

perfect face for a film Fellini,

Rhythm, hundred and twenty, one hundred and twenty and Centotrentuno ,

its unique sunsets

low houses and the Nile that flows always warm when the night comes.

(Cairo, June 2010)

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Things ...

There are other things that explain things. And when I sometimes find myself wondering what pushed me down here, five thousand miles from my dear father, my family and friends, away from the smell of hay, rustling leaves, fresh from the cypress damp ditches, by the sound of the dialect, and from the bow of a boat that beats the wave, the wind that flows across the canvas of the sails, the moorings by the industrious hands, eyes to scan the bottom and then the sky , then, here, alone, theoretically in this desert, where virtually no one (except for one woman in the world) could reach even if it wanted to, then here is something I happen to read, written many years ago, which explains many things. And everything is clear to me and I do not need to ADD anything.

"Nor fondness for my son, nor reverence For my old father, nor 'the due affection Which joyous should have made Penelope, Could overcome within me the desire I' had to gain experience of the world and de vices and human worth, but I put forth on the high open sea With one sole ship, and that small company By which I never had deserted been.

The one shore and the other I saw, as far as Spain since as Morocco and the island of the Sardinians and the other which that sea bathes round about. Me and 'companions were old and slow when we came to that narrow dov'Ercule marked them about him in order that the man no farther forth. On the right hand behind me left I Seville, And on the other already had left Ceuta. "O brothers," I said, "that for a hundred thousand perils have come to the West, To this so inconsiderable vigil of our senses which is the remaining, please do not deny the experience back to the sun in the world without people.

C ith the your seed from which you were not made to live like brutes but to follow virtue and knowledge. "Li eager did I render my companions nails with this little speech to the path which a penalty could have held them afterwards, and having turned our stern unto the morning of 'rowing made wings for our mad flight, Evermore gaining on the larboard side.

Already all the stars from the other pole The night beheld, and 'ours so low that did not rise above the ocean floor. Five times rekindled and as many of the lumen was underneath the moon, then that 'ntrati were we step up when it appeared to us a mountain dim distance, and it seemed to me so high As he had not seen any. Joyful were we, and soon it turned into tears because of the new land a whirlwind rose, And smote upon the fore part. Three times it made her whirl with all the water in the fourth lifted the stern uplift, And the prow downward com'altrui pleased. Finally, that 'the sea above us closed again. "

(Ulysses, in Dante's Divine Comedy, Inferno, Canto 26)

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Part 4 and end: 2010 Odyssey in the desert

"We were twenty days in Abu Dhabi, a quiet national of more or less two thousand inhabitants. Every morning there was visiting the sheik and slow steps in the fort, we talked for hours drinking coffee and delicious Arabic sweets. Then when we left we went to the market where, sitting cross-legged in the shops, we were to chat and drink more coffee. In the afternoon we wandered to the beach where the dhow sailors caulk with fat to prepare them for shark fishing season of the pearls. Children were playing in the water and fishermen landed their catch of the day.

few scenes more or less like you can still see it even here in Dubai, perhaps the port of Umm Suqueim. 90s This city has experienced development rates probably unparalleled in the world, even in the United States in the last century. Highways, hospitals, schools, universities, electric plants, desalination of seawater, extensive irrigation, air conditioning everywhere. And then cement factories, airports, industrial parks, office towers, residential complexes, shopping malls, supermarkets, exhibition centers, hotels, beaches, golf courses, ski slopes in the desert, satellite stations, television studios, publishing houses and some more so on and so forth. A bubble of enormous size that, with the global economic crisis, it was prepared to explode.

I think the bubble, however, has never really exploded, as some you are emptying quickly. The pace of life decreases day after day like a balloon laundry but I seemed to hear bangs and now I think more has been given.

There are two ways to read the crisis in Dubai. The first is through the collapse of buildings and blocking international loans, two events - these are explosives - which have crippled two areas that certainly will not recover its 'short-it' in the medium term. The second viewing angle is rather to consider the whole economy of the city-state, which was not born yesterday and that leverages the competitive advantages of its geographical location and its first class infrastructure. From this point of view is not difficult to foresee that in the medium term the growth of Dubai will remain high, although the peak of the unsustainable boom years are destined to never to return.

Between 2008 and 2009, the financial crisis of U.S. sub-primes has spread rapidly into a global economic crisis. Dubai economy is (relatively) small and heavily dependent on external demand. In fact, this froze instantly, despite the proclamations of the sheikhs who were trying to deny the obvious. The tumbling price of oil fell from 140 to 40 dollars a barrel, many companies suspended all projects stifling economic growth as the breath of the Emirate in which they no longer flowed 'capital will' work force.

The housing bubble began to become a concern in late 2008, when tighter credit conditions and falling confidence index dissipated demand. Just at the same time the frenzy of construction sites open a few years earlier was coming to put on the market a huge amount of buildings despite an excess supply that was starting to become clear. The manufacturers obviously decided to complete at least the jobs that were now nearing the end, accelerating to place the property before others see them ended. Maybe I can make more clear with a simple esmpio: Chiara (may Allah bless and protect) lives in a tower in a new megappartamento than sixty plans, pay half of what they had asked last year and the entire building for the moment there are only three families. In short, the new towers if they simply remain there half empty, it will take years before the bid realigns with demand. I would say that the prospects for real estate in Dubai are very bad.

icing on the cake, or rather on the dynamite fuse, all this was built by funding long-term investments with short-term debts. Now without being Tremonti or a Nobel Prize for Economics just a Bedouin of those who accompanied Thesiger in the desert without too many difficulties to see a considerable financial risk in the enterprise. In fact, the slumbering dragon has finally awakened to the end of 2009 when the largest local real estate - the now infamous Dubai World - has collapsed under the weight of its debts and was forced to renegotiate the structure of its financing. The result was clearly intended to deprive the confidence international investors now deny credit to projects in the emirate, which finds itself so short of capital.

Once we recognize this undeniable fact can not but fail to realize that Dubai is not born yesterday with the housing bubble.

"I said goodbye to my traveling companions and I went to Sharjah to Dubai where I was the guest of Edward Anderson. They lived in a large house on the creek, the strait that divides the city into two. Dubai was the largest city on the coast, with about twenty five thousand inhabitants. Many boats were moored in the creek or were doing in the hull in dry mud on its banks. C ' were dhow, jaulabauts, there were Kuwaitis Boowa and elders from Sur. baghila had an old one side decorated with monograms Christians who were probably copied from the projects Portuguese galleons that had been handed down unchanged from generation to generation. (...)


I would have been able to bring in air from Sharjah to Bahrain but I preferred to do it on a dhow sailing from Dubai (...) The first night we were taken by a storm and had to repair under the Persian coast where he sailed for nearly three days because the wind dropped as we came straight on the bow. Whilst waiting for the wind was running we were joined by others who were returning from Zanzibar dhow. The dhow boats are solid, heavy, made to sail the ocean Indian Ocean. The their captains were rowing alongside, we ate with rice, dates, and a large fish that had just caught and smoked shisha and we spoke of their trip but not a lot of words I could understand them.
The next day the wind shifted and we started en route to Bahrain. It was exciting to see the big dhow that exceeded slicing through the waves of the Gulf. They were the last commercial vessels that sail the world ancoralunghe sailing routes only. A little later would be gone.

When we were almost in sight of the coast the wind dropped and we were to roll in the heat for four endless days. The short spring Arabic was over, the sky was clear and the sun beat down vertically. Humidity enveloped us like a hot towel, warm water in the tank was rusty and the time it seemed. The crew, like all Arabs, had an enviable ability to sleep when there was nothing else to do: it is wrapped in a sail, all'sitante asleep and slept for long hours. (...) The Arabs were a great seafaring race and I was dhow ride that because I wanted to see them with my own eyes. The their dhow had sailed along the coasts India to Indonesia and further afield. In the nineteenth century the ports of the Emirates who had recently left were better known as the Pirate Coast, much less a century ago in these waters Jasim pirates had held in check the British Navy for a long time. (...)
Finally got a breath of wind that seemed to hold. The captain shouted to the crew that came out of his endless slumber and began to hoist the sails and pull off singing and clapping rhythmically feet on deck.


arrived in Bahrain 28 May 1953, the former commandant nearly went blind landing passing sailing full between moored boats. Eventually we broke a couple of low order and went to the beach right next to one of the dhows that were with us in the Persian coast a week earlier "

More than fifty years here it works to diversify the economy and establish itself as a reference in the Gulf region. In the 60s it was dredged and widened the Creek and early '70s had built Port Rashid, in '80 we realized the huge port and free zone of Jebel Ali was born in 1985 and the national airline, the famous Emirates Airlines. Geographically central in trade between Europe and Asia, Dubai is the city with the highest quality of life in the region: Mercer puts 75 th best city in the world as quality of life, the first front in the Middle East in Abu Dhabi (83) , Musqat (the capital of Oman, 100) and Doha in Qatar (110). The UAE in general are considered by the Economist the fifteenth country in the world for quality of life, the best in the Gulf ahead of Kuwait (23), Bahrain (24), Oman (32) and Saudi Arabia (38). And the same crisis building in a sense is a boon for business. Today it is estimated that about 35% of properties in Dubai are empty, this percentage is likely to touch 50% in the coming months when the last work in progress will be completed. Rents senseless and uncontrollable costs in 2008 which led many companies to shift their interest towards the center of Abu Dhabi, Doha and Musquat have been halved and stabilized. Today put an office or rent a house in Dubai is extremely convenient. In recent years the shortage of apartments and their inordinate and uncontrollable costs had led many to look for a house in nearby Sharjah and Ajman. Today, this flow is reversed, and even some people working on Abu Dhabi and chooses to take home in the south of Dubai, about an hour's drive from the office.

So, in my opinion is more or less difficult to predict what will happen. In the coming years, the economy of this part of the world will grow at a rate almost twice the global average (eg the reconstruction of Iraq alone will represent a huge economic opportunity) and Dubai will be - as always - in the best position to take advantage. If anything, the real risks they will face the small but prosperous economy of the Emirate will be external ones: the European crisis of the public debt, doubts about the sustainability of Chinese growth model, the geopolitics of the Middle East region will influence significantly the ability of Dubai to bounce along with the rest of the world economy.
_______________________________________________

NOTE: Both quotations in this post are as always to Wilfred Thesiger, from "Arabian Sands" (written in 1953 and published for the first time in London in '58) . The second in particular I added later, because I wanted to make a gift to Fra ', trendaduesima benvenutissima reader and dedicate it to my wife, a great sailor and sea life that I love and I say good luck for their new navigation in the hills.

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Part 3: Traveling with Wilfred

"We had to avoid any contact with Arabs who were not of Rashid and possibly with them, so that the news of my presence here might not be known among the tribes. Groups of Karabo from Hadhramaut mountains had plundered the area last year and then also ran the serious risk of being mistaken for bandits, since the clearly our tracks came from the steppes of the south. But we needed to water the camels and find water for us, so we decided to get as close as possible to the oases of Liwa and then from there send a group to the village to get food for at least another month. Hamad told me that belonged to the Liwa Al bu Falah Abu Dhabi and that they were perpetually at war with the Said bin Maktoum of Dubai. Many raids were ongoing and the Arabs were suspicious of the Coast and on constant alert. "

When you think the rivalry between Dubai and Abu Dhabi , who built the tower longer to Recent economic events of the Dubai Holding delayed with support from Abu Dhabi's cousins \u200b\u200b Until the final move of Burj Dubai Burj renamed Khalifa not forget that not later than a few decades ago the two tribes were still merrily butcher, and not at large. Up to 70 this year region was still largely a tribal area composed of seven independent emirates known as "the Trucial States" because of maritime agreements entered into with the British Crown in order to ensure safe transit of ships en route to India.

As oil has been found for the first time to the 1958 off the coast of Abu Dhabi it took at least ten years before he started a real industrial exploitation. In 68, the British have officially withdrawn from the region and in '71 the two most powerful United realized that the era of oil at the gates would not be a bad idea to put aside their rivalries to manage the secular 'black gold through a federation clearly destined to become very powerful. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan of Abu Dhabi and Rahid Sheikh bin Seed Al Maktoum of Dubai then shook an agreement which was later ratified by the other sheikhs in the area: they were born the UAE, a federation of seven independent states in a small mountainous peninsula and desert: Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Fujeirah, Ajman, Umm al-Qaiwain and Ras al Khaimah, also known as RAK, said that only a few years later.

The end of the (indirect) British colonization coincided with the surge in world oil prices. The Emirates flourished (in the true sense of the word) and prospered under the guidance of some rulers (in a sense) lit. Sheikh Zayed was considered one of the Fathers of the Fatherland, as well as the famous Sheikh Zayed Road . F u a visionary and dreamer, his successors , Sheikh Rashid and his son, Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid to make those dreams come true. Sheikh Maktoum has passed away in 2006 and today is his brother, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid , who took the honors as vice president of the UAE, Prime Minister, Defence Minister and Ruler of Dubai of course .

At the time of the seven emirates foundation had a total population less than 180,000 scattered in an area of \u200b\u200bdesert and mountains. Today residents of UAE are about four million, one and a half in Dubai. The vast majority of expatriates from the Indian subcontinent, then Asians in general, Arabs from neighboring countries and a bit 'in the West, primarily in English, of course. The

Emaratee - so you define the original inhabitants, we "western expats" simply call "locals" - wear traditional clothes. The dishdasha , which is a long white robe worn over a sarong and sandals for men el ' black abaya that covers many more local women from head to toe. Very rarely and only in women more the elderly ' abaya is also accompanied by burqa, a leather mask covering mouth and nose. In the West the term is used largheggiando a bit 'and extending it to any object likely to fully cover the face, preferably a woman. Proudly dressed in this way Emaratee are still shopping in most fashionable boutiques, driving luxury cars on a highway system that can easily be envied by most developed nations of the world.

"The next morning we arrived at Muwaiqih, one of eight villages in the oasis of Buraimi, where he lived Sheikh Zayed. At the edge of the desert dunes give way to a flat stone and from there you could already see his strong : a large square enclosure with walls of mud about ten feet high. On the right, behind a ruined wall, half buried in sand and there was a grove of palms dry and dusty in the background which could be seen in the distance, the massive block Jebel Hafeet, five thousand feet high and some ten miles. Even more in the almost indefinite, pale blue peaks of the mountains Oman.

Thesiger came here in 1948, crossing the Empty Quarter by camel. Al Ain is an oasis city in the hinterland of Abu Dhabi , where the peaks of the Hajar mountains meet the plains of the desert and water sources form a large oasis. Today it is home a great cattle market. I go there to admire its great parks and its forts, including of course to Sheikh Zayed. Al Ain was his hometown and the Sheikh always had an eye for the area. Which explains all the sumptuous palaces and even the endless stream of anti-trafficking bumps on the long straight that the desert into the center city.

"Hamad took us up to Ibri. He knew the desert well and movements of various tribes and there said it was better to stay along the southern edge of Liwa because this area was little known at the time. Normally the plains south of Liwa are preferred by grazing herds of camels Manasi but recently they have been repeatedly raided by marauders in Dubai and then decided to move further west.

The oasis of Liwa is located further south, deep in the desert Rub Al Khali . It was the ancestral home of the royal family of Al Nahyan is a large crescent of oases, each of which originally was no more than two huts barasti and four date palms. A remote location and Bedouin who once could be reached only by camel marches under the sun, thirst, heat and fatigue. Today we will arrive safely on the highway and became the starting point for trips organized through the giant dunes of the Empty Quarter .

The other five Emirates extend all north of Dubai. The closest along the coast only 13 miles and now practically incorporated into the main town, is Al Sharjah .


Proudly Muslim and historically ruled by a powerful family Al Qasimi, Sharjah has long been the dominant power in this part of the Gulf. Walled city, home to the first airport in the UAE, long commercial port bound from Europe to India and founder of the first school of the region, opened in 1953 ( millenovecentocinquantatrè !). E 'Emirate of more intransigent in terms of customs and the contrast with Dubai can be significant. Its dominance has declined as more and more large ships have started to have problems to enter its narrow and shallow creek preferring to stay in easier of Dubai creek. But p er because of its history and the profound respect for the Sharjah ruling family still enjoys high esteem. About twenty years ago was appointed Arab Cultural Capital and that still continues to proclaim, in spite of its plans to "landscape beautification" (which means trying to planting grass and flowers in the desert) is now just a pleasant little dormitory town and industrial area of \u200b\u200bDubai.

"We came Sharjah May 10 (1948 ed) . Flanking the airport via the skeletons of abandoned cars, piles of empty cans, broken bottles, piles of rusty barbed wire and pieces of paper flying everywhere. A generator in the distance and struck a Jeep on the slopes, leaving the smell of smoke, oil and gasoline. Sharjah was a small Arab town on the beach, miserable and decadent as Abu Dhabi, but infinitely more miserable because it was covered with waste brought here from who knows where. "

Dibba and Khor Fakkan are enclaves of Sharjah on the eastern shore. Popular local tourist destinations, are quiet and still relatively unaffected by modernization. Much respect, to be honest. to alternate with these enclaves is the Emirate of Fujeirah : 1300 km paintings of mountains with a few tiny coastal plain, desert course. Until a decade ago, the east coast was completely isolated from the rest of the country, was then built a highway that passes through the mountains zone Masafi to go down to the fishing villages on the coast of the Gulf of Oman, including heavy mud, date palm plantations and traditional irrigation canals.

North of Sharjah emirates there are two children: el'impronunciabile Ajman Umm al-Quaiwain ( which means "The Mother of something I have not yet understood" ). Both have developed from small fishing villages on the coast. Today is the first known for its traditional shipyards from which comes most of the dhow the area while the second, in honor of its marine origin, has a (relatively) important center of Search fisheries.

up north, bordering the Oman and the Musandam Peninsula , there Ras al-Khaimah. an emirate rich in history as Sharjah boasts periods of rule over the entire region. Ras al-Khaimah is rich in water sources and agriculture is unexpectedly developed: there are rumors of even the cultivation of strawberries, which are then exported to Europe. Other attractions RAK are hot springs in the mountains Hajfar , date palm plantations hidden in the District and a number of ghost towns. Around here there was the powerful Julfar , fortified city that ruled over the area until the eighteenth century when it was abandoned improvvisamene. In this coastal mountains and fjords is also Telegraph Island, a rock has become famous around the world and then quickly forgotten, disappeared along with the glory days of the telegraph.

But of all these places we will have time to talk about it more calmly, as a result.


____________________________________
NOTE: All of these quotes are taken from post Arabian Sands, by Wilfred Thesiger . The book was published for the first time in London in 1959 and tells of his travels in the desert of Arabia from 1945 to 1949. In the Italian version is published by Blacks and Pozza called Arabian sands, although I think it would be more correct to translate it into sands of Arabia. I recommend the same author also When the Arabs lived Water, a title that is really a bad translation from the original The Arab of the Marshes. I fear that both are slightly out of print so you will not be easy to find.